Ajui, the wild west from Fuerteventura

This is where Jean de Béthencourt and Gadifer de la Salle disembarked in 1402. The two conquerors pushed on through the valley of Vega de Río Palmas, tall palm-trees above them, valley of Vega de Río Palmas, tall palm-trees above them, through thick undergrowth, sometimes wading through the raging currents of the mountain stream, which in those das carried water all year round. Ajui5-2[1]

For many years, the black sand beach of “Puerto de la Peña” served a newly-founded island capital of Betancuria as a harbour.

Today, Ajuy presents itself as a sleepy, idyllic fishing village. In winter the creels lie stacked on top of one another on the beach, and hardly any fishing is done, as the sea is often “muy mal” (very bad), its breakers dangerous to the little boats, especially in spring. The fishing season is from May to October, when the bars and restaurants are guaranteed to serve you fish fresh from the sea. Patas de Cabras, a particular kind of shellfish and a local speciality, are pris ajuystrand2[1]

ed from the walls of the caves near the shore only in August and September. At high tide the caves are underwater, and collecting the shellfish is not without dangers.
If you’re looking for adventure, a climb down into the Caleta Negro is the thing for you, though you have to be sure-footed. The cave is 600 m deep and consists of several connected chambers and passageways. The way down into the cave is not hard to find, but if you would like a guide, ask in one of the restaurants. For a couple of euros, sometimes even for just a thank you, one of the locals is sure to volunteer to show you the way. The mouth of the cave in the rock can also be admired from a safe distance, from the cliff.

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In the 19th century, lime was shipped from Puerto de la Peña. To the right of the village, above the neighbouring bay, you can find the remains of a lime kiln and the loading station.

The steps and concrete pillars are said to be all that’s left of uncompleted work designed to convert the natural caves into a submarine base.
Even if you’re not hungry, or prefer the “Casa Pepin” restaurant, you should still take a peek inside the “golden cage” on the black sandy bay. For years now, the ini ajuyfelsentor2[1] mitable Julian has stood behind the bar of his eccentrically decorated saloon, serving his guests with air-dried ham, goat’s cheese and wine, and charging prices that depend on how much he likes someone. In summer, he also serves tapas made of fish, seafood and shells.
The place is open when Julian feels like it.